The beautiful conception of the Maheshwari saree dates back to 18th century at Maheshwar, a city in Khargone district of Madhya Pradesh. With its rich history, the town falls right in line with its famed Maheshwari fabric. These sarees were initially made of pure Silk, but with the passage of time, Cotton was also one of the major fabrics used for these exquisitely designed sarees. Originating from the town of Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh, Maheshwari fabric is mainly used in designing Maheshwari Sarees, other than dupattas and dress material for Salwar Kameez.These sarees are in demand not only in India, but also in international markets.
Origin And History
The origin of the Maheshwari sarees dates back to the 18th century, when the state of Indore in Madhya Pradesh was ruled by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar.The interesting legend behind these sarees is of Queen Ahilyabai Holkar who ordered various craftsman and artisans from Malwa and Surat to design a special saree with 9 yards, which later came to be known as the Maheshwari saree.These sarees were supposed to be a special gift for the royal relatives and guests who visited the palace. With the first saree conceived and designed by Her Highness herself, Maheshwari sarees went on to become a huge hit in the royal and aristocratic circle. Following this, the production of Maheshwari sarees caught up, and these graceful sarees soon started becoming popular with women of all ages.
Material Used
Un-degummed mulberry silk yarn of 18/20 -20/22 Den is used in warp whereas 2/80 – 2/100s cotton yarn is used in weft. Gold and silver Zari are used for weaving extra warp design in border and for extra weft butta and stripe in pallaw.
Weaving Process
Two types of handlooms are used in Maheshwar – the older pit looms which are heavy and fixed, and the newer frame looms with lightweight metal frames. The latter is the more popular type now. The dyed and untangled yarn is now ready for the tedious and time-consuming process of weaving by master weavers. After dyeing, the yarn is normally received by the weavers in the form of bundles. Both in the case of weft and the warp, the thread needs to be freed from tangles and stretched in order to make them tighter. They are then are taken through a process of reeling by using a charkha, thus converting the bundles into small rolls. In case of warp, a big motorised charkha is used; in case of weft, a small, hand‐driven charkha is used, which makes bobbins. In the case of the warping of the silk threads, a more delicate process involving an octagonal cylindrical frame and hooks is used. The fabric was dyed with naturally extracted colours and zari and kinari was used to enhance the richness of this weave. Weavers also used gold or silver threads and gemstones to embellish the intricate patterns and add shimmer to the saree. However, now copper coated nylon wires have replaced the zari and time constraints leave little room for the process of slow natural dyeing. Apart from sarees, Maheshwari fabric today is used for kurtas, shirts, stoles, dupattas, etc. Since the fabric is airy and lightweight, outfits made of this fabric are perfect for the Indian weather, making them an absolute favourite.
Special Features
esides its understated elegance, these sarees are loved by women for its glossy finish and light weight. Though originally done only in silk, Maheshwari sarees are now available in cotton, silk cotton and even wool. With fine cotton yarns in its weft and silk in the warp, this light and airy fabric has the soft lustre of silk. The light fabric makes it a perfect choice for women all through the year, something you can’t do with textiles like Kanjeevaram and Banarasi. The most interesting part of a Maheshwari saree is the pallu. The pallu is done up in bright colours like magenta, pink, green, mauve, violet and maroon. These are particularly distinct with their five stripes, two white and three coloured ones, alternating. Another highlight of Maheshwari sarees is their reversible borders, that can be worn on either side.
